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Intro

Zadumalas’ ya nedavno nad sleduushim – Chto znachit krasota? I, deistvitel’no, li krasota (obshee, vseob’emlushee ponyatie KRASIVIGO) yavlyaetsya glavenstvuushim v mode seichas? Est’ standarti krasoti, no standartna li krasota na samom dele? Inimi slovami, dlya vseh li ona odinakovaya?
Takih voprosov u menya ochen’ mnogo na samom dele, chto, v principe, inogda igraet svou rol’, potomu chto voprosi opredelyaut krug togo, chto ti budesh’ iskat’, kak bi namechaya, takim obrazom, put’! Verno je? Tak v put’, gospoda!

Idea

Nedavno ya jdala svoego priyatelya u Plaza 66, chto v Shanghae est’ high-end and luxury shopping mall v samom centre na Nanjing Xi Rd. V tot moment menya privlek window display boutique Christian Dior.
Na vitrine-okne ne bilo ni manikenov, ni prochih umestnih props – okno bilo ‘’zavesheno’’ ogromnim svetyashimsya posterom poslednei F/W2011 homme kollekcii Dior (fotografiu dlya referencii sm. nije).
Na photo bil model’ – pravil’nie cherty lisa, pravil’noe virajenie lisa (nu, vi znaete, kak pravil’no vesti sebya, kogda fotografiruut….osobenno devushki – prim. avt.). Eshe na nem bil classic suit…po-vidimomu, t.k. foto bilo ne v polnii rost.
Vse kazalos’ tak, odnako, menya etot poster zastavil zadumat’sya, chto ya ne nahoju ego krasivim…nu, vi ponimaete, – K-R-A-S-I-V-I-M vo vseh ottenkah i mislimih znacheniyah etogo slova; chto u menya on, skoree vsego, vizivaet  skuku kakuu-to ili kognitivnii dissonans v trilogii: brand Christian Dior=krasota=etot poster (?) Ya voobshe nichego ne nahoju v nem i ne chuvstvuu, chto neset dannya kommunkaciya: net emotions, net message....odna pustota…daje ne voprositel’nii znak.

Vacuum

Pustota, vacuum, otsutstvie emocii v modnom bisnese – eto, doljna skazat’, est’ smert’! Potomu chto imenno emocional’noe vospriyatie dvijet nami (=potrebitelyami), kogda mi pokupaem brandi, kogda mi im otdaem nashe serdce, kogda vistraivaem ih v lineechku predpochtenii i t.d. Znaete, v russkom izdanii jurnala Glamour let 5 nazad (vosmojno, i seichas) bila takaya sekciya: “Brandi, kakie noshu…” i tut je primeri; i “Brandi moei mechti…”. 
Vot eto i kak raz illustraciya nashei sil’neisheishei emocional’noi svyazi s brandami i kstati ne tol’ko brandami odejdi. Ochen’ sil’no eta svyaz naglyadna v luxury brands, razumeetsya. I, konechno je, vsya eta nasha lichanya “romanticheskya” igra s brandami podderjivaetsya vsyacheski brand-communikaciyami ili, v sluchae s Dior, doljna podderjivat'sya.
Menya kak ob’ekta postoyannih sil’neishih fashion-messagei udivil etot absolutno pustoi poster Christian Dior….ili, mojet bit, on mne ne dal zaryad, kot. drugie brandi nesut? Komu interesno, chto ya imeu v vidu, posmotrite hotya bi D&G Ad Campaign S/S2007 here (from stylecaster.com)…it is harassing, but I think you’ve got my point.

Obshee

Vstrechali li vi kogda-nibud’ ludei, kotorih nel’zya nazvat’ krasivimi s tochki zrenya klassicheskoi krasoti, no kotorie, odnako, obladaut kakimi-to charami, harismoi, auroi, i potomu oni priznani krasivimi (ili vi sami schitaete ih krasivimi)? Pochemu ya sprashivau? A potomu chto ya prihoju k mneniu, chto KRASOTA, ona raznaya. Ona u kajdogo svoya. I ocheeeennn’ chasto krasota est’ ta samaya aura, emociya, esli hotite.
Krasota est’ odna iz samih sub’ektivnih kategorii na svete. I vse, chto s nei svyazano ili eu opredelyaetsya (iskusstvo, naprimer) tak je neodnoznachno i protivorechivo. Bolee togo, sovremennaya fashion kak raz stavit na eto…
Kakim obrazom? Ochen’ prosto – smotrite sami, na print-reklame v jurnalah (pervie 10 stranis kommercheskogo print’a) vi ochen’ chasto teper’ ne uvidete po-nastoyashemu KRASIVOI modeli. Da, da, daje u high-high-end brandov ved’ eto, v dannom sluchae, daje ne vopros togo, skol’ko stoit “kupit” krasivuu model’ dlya reklami.
Vi uvidite model’ cheloveka, podhodyashego dlya reklami odejdi/accessories – visokuu i huduu (-ogo). Vse! Ee cherti lisa…o, Boje, nikto teper’ i ne dumaet o ee lice…ved’ est’ visage i Photoshop, pravda? Teper’ daje nikto ne dumaet o zubah i kak oni smotryatsya u modeli (sm. nije print Miu Miu) - ih narochno delaut nestandartnimi, a liso...ehh, eto, vidimo, igra novogo formata, da? Eto chto novaya krasota? Ili eto estestvennost’? Eto KRASIVO?

Raznisa

O chem dumaut brandi?
Brandi, osobenno gromadnie marki, ivereni, chto po-nastoyashemu krasivaya model’ teper’ nenujna, potomu chto ona mojet zatmit’ odejdu i sam message, kotorii ad neset. Oni teper’ bolee stavyat na bezlikih modelei…ih kstati tak I nazivaut. Krome togo, auditoriya uznaet brand i vsu auru, kot. etot brand neset i uje sama assosiiruet etot brand s chem-to krasivim (opyat’ je v shirokom ponimanii slova).
Inimi islovami, skajem, Burberry mojet ne bespokoit’ya o modelyah, potomu chto Burberry KRASIV, I vsya aura branda neset chto-to takoe chto deistvuet na nas s vami, kak: “Esli Burberry sdelali eto (ili luboi drugoi high-end well-recognized brand), to eto krasivo (viberi podhodyashee: trendovo, modno, stil’no….eto “new art” and so on and on). 
Vot k chemu mi prihodim. Ot togo momenta, kogda moda hotela sdelat’ nas krasivimi, a teper’…teper’ mi krasivie etoi mode nenujni, ona posredstvom brandov diktuet, kto krasiv, a kto – net. Ei nenujni stali lichnosti, potomu chto lichnost’ modeli mojet ne “soitis’” s lichnost'u branda.
V zavershenii, ya bi hotela ostavit' koe-kakuu remark na razmishlenie. Interesnii fact, chto Natalia Vodyanova, kotoraya est’ i po pravu schitaetsya top-model’u s lichnost’u (i ochen’ vostrebavana kstati), naprimer, v Kitae (mainland) odnovremenno bila lisom – LV, Etam, Hugo Boss, Guerlain (eto te, chto pomnu navernyaka). Brandi eti, kak vi ponimaete, absolutno raznogo ranga...odno liso, odnako…Hmmmm, interesting, pravda?
Chto mne dumaetsya po etomu povodu? Ne sovsem uverena..vernee, poka eshe ne mogu put the thoughts into the solid words. Odnako, bila bi rada uslishat' chto-nibud' ot chitatelei! Cheers and many thnx to you, guys! xx
Speak to you later!

 ...FYI...

1. Blank...

Image courtesy of frillr.com (Fashion and All Its Frills)
http://frillr.com/?q=node/19688
Christian Dior Menswear FW2011-2012 Ad Campaign

2. R They Pretty? Different Kind of Message? What? What? What?

Image courtesy of styleFT. Style direction
http://styleft.wordpress.com/2010/07/04/miu-miu-fall-winter-2010-2011-ad-campaign
Miu Miu FW2012 Ad Campaign
 

3. We all think there is smth amazing about this ad, don't we? (*sarcasm)

Image courtesy of yourstylentrend.com
http://www.yourstylentrend.com/blog/burberry-fall-winter-2010-ad-campaign
Burberry F/W 2010 Ad Campaign

4. Natalia Vodyanova, Etam Ad Campaign 2010-'11
Daning Shopping Mall, Shanghai (China)

 

5. Courtesy of Logical Harmony (more pics...)
http://www.logicalharmony.net/christy-turlington-karen-elson-natalia-vodianova-for-louis-vuitton-fallwinter-2010/
Christy Turlington, Karen Elson & Natalia Vodianova for Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2010

7. Courtesy of epaper.yangtse.com
http://epaper.yangtse.com/yzwb/2009-06/04/content_12743372.htm
Natalia Vodyanova for Guerlain, 2010 (one of the series' pics)

8. Courtesy of stylefrizz.com (more pics)
http://stylefrizz.com/201008/natalia-vodianova-for-hugo-boss-fall-2010-ad-campaign/
Natalia Vodyanova for Hugo Boss, F/W2011 Ad Campaign

 

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